Category: Uncategorized

Food for life, Great things to do in Bali, healthy cafes Bali, Uncategorized

Little Green

Alison Bone

In the three years that it has been open The Little Green Cafe has built a loyal following thanks to a fresh salad bar, friendly vibe, and delicious healthy desserts. With its relocation last year to a bigger space (just across the road from the original spot,) Little Green has blossomed –  quite literally – into the cafe it was always meant to be. Vines dangle in the vibrant garden, aloe vera spills out of  terracotta pots; basil and coriander thrive amidst the Buddha statues, and there are colourful garlands of flowers everywhere. Simple outdoor furniture is punctuated by sunbrellas, heart-shaped napkin holders and woven placemats.

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Little Green has always been a  gathering place, somewhere to sit down with friends and enjoy a good healthy meal in atmospheric, welcoming  surrounds.  Now there is room to breath, and the garden creates a true sanctuary –  its hard to believe we are just meters  from busy Jalan Mertanadi.  The concept remains the  same – home style whole foods, with daily changing salads and bakes, vegan burgers, healthy juicy elixirs. However, the menu, like the premises has expanded, with a recent shift  towards more raw vegan foods – including a huge range of delicious and nutritious desserts.  

 

We start with a Raw Mexican Platter, a new addition featuring  crunchy, locally made tortilla chips, home baked chilli beans, a sharp, piquant tomato sambal, fresh salsa and a creamy tahina and peanut sauce. I follow with the bake of the day – a light and tasty vegan Vegetable Lasagne made with eggless pasta, lashings of fresh vegetables and spinach. The rich creaminess coming from a cashew nut cheese and totally renders béchamel sauce obsolete!  I choose two side salads, Pumpkin & Pineapple, with rucola, lemongrass, cranberries and a hint of chilli, and Fennel, Beetroot Coleslaw, a bright, cheery and very red salad madewith lots of peppers, cabbage and beetroot.

 

I really enjoy the desserts which have a natural and earthy goodness. The moist and sticky Vegan Chocolate Cake is textured and flavoured with organic raw cacao and cashews, and sweetened with dates. While the Raw Vegan Strawberry Cheesecake is made with creamed cashews, vanilla, honey, almonds and dates set in a macadamia nut crust.  

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Drinks range from Young Coconut, to Aloe Vera, Orange and Apple and Green Juice, and there is also a small selection of nuts and pulses, teas and organic products for sale in the shop front. For those looking for a healthy kick start to the day The Little Green breakfast beckons with Cranberry Almond Porridge,  Apple, Date and Cinnamon Porridge.

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The Little Green Café  Jl Bidadari No 1. (off Jalan Mertanadi)

 

P +62 361  2752125  Open 9am – 6pm

 

Food for life, Great things to do in Bali, healthy cafes Bali, Uncategorized

Kopi Kultur

Alison Bone

A number of charismatic warungs and cafes have sprung up in Kerobokan lately.  Kopi Kultur is one of them, and turns out to be the most wonderful of discoveries.

 

The rustic cafe is housed in a sloping bamboo structure and is part of the Wisnu Open Space which incorporates a gallery, a library and  headquarters for the Wisnu foundation. Set up to empower local communities, the Balinese foundation has a  range of initiatives including eco tourism that promotes traditional villages and their natural attractions, such as rice fields, organic coffee plantations and customary rituals.

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Ayip Budiman a communications expert, and one of the founders of Kopi Kultur explains that, “The cafe is a showcase, but the real story is what lies behind.” This is the perfect example of a group of  people with very different backgrounds but similar social values who ar. The four include Ayip, along with  I Made Suarnatha who created the Wisnu foundation, Dicky Lopulalan – a facilitations expert, and Rai Bangsawan of ‘Bali Exotic Beans’ a farming and agricultural consultant who works directly with farmers to implement sustainable, fair trade practices.

 

While coffee is a specialty, there is also  Indonesian food, homemade cakes, pies, baguettes and a range of products on sale such as organic coffee, palm sugar and 9 grain rice – all supplied directly from small local businesses. Rai expertly prepares us Bali Arabica coffee in an elegant glass siphon right at the table, and we sip the resulting smooth rich brew from dainty glasses. He makes a great Cappuccino too, and there is also coffee from Ache, Timor and Papua, as well as  Bali Rustica and Bali Peabody, all of which can be spiced up with the addition of cloves, cinnamon, ginger or cardamom.  

 

The menu offers Indonesian favourites such as Campur and Rendang as well as grills and a couple of pasta dishes. The Nasi Bamboo Kopi Kultur is impressive – rice and vegetables steamed in a piece of bamboo more than a meter long. The bamboo is split open at the table releasing a wonderful aroma. Half is filled with nutty nine grain rice, the other a light and fragrant mix of colourful vegetables, fish and chicken. The pies are also good – especially the Apple with lots of cinnamon.  

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The gallery currently has an interesting exhibition by the Eco defenders #Kudamacan, a local cyclist group who are passionate about protecting the environment, while the library shelves are filled with titles in Bahasa Indonesian, English and other languages. Set up as a space for the community, Wisnu Open Space has developed into quite a gathering place, a true melting pot of musicians and artists including locals, expats, and increasing numbers of tourists who are looking for cultural insight. We are also in luck as the Black Valentine community events gets underway just after sunset and some great local bands take to the outdoor stage to belt out some good old fashioned rock n roll.

 

What started as a simple restaurant review turned into an inspirational experience, marked by excellent coffee, interesting people, good music and a genuine sense of community.

 

Kopi Kultur   Jalan Pengubengan Kauh 94    P +62 361 798 3222

 

Food for life, Great things to do in Bali, healthy cafes Bali, Uncategorized

Kreole Kitchen

Alison Bone

 

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The food alone is enough of a reason to stop at Kreole Kitchen, but the retro ‘old school’ Melbourne vibe creates a wonderful sense of nostalgia that has me  reminiscing about the carefree days of my childhood in Australia.

Lime green Tupperware, pots shaped like pineapples, vinyl album art and lamp shades made from tea towels printed with kangaroos and kookaburras evoke the 70’s.  A black board lists homemade pies, and a glass cabinet is filled with the kind of sweets I used to bake with my mum – like peppermint slices, crumbly short bread and chocolate crackles, while I could swear the vintage crockery and framed teaspoon collection came from my grandma. However the rice field views from the breakfast counter at the back don’t let me forget that I am in Bali.

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Annick,who formerly worked in the design industry started the cafe in 2012 and  now spends her days cooking and playing gracious host to her many regular guests. “I am living my dream,” she says with a smile, “I feel blessed.”  While her heritage is Mauritian Creole, she grew up in Melbourne, and the menu and the paraphernalia reflect both.The space is nurturing and comforting, heavy on the human touch, with a dose of spirituality thrown into the mix. Paintings of three female deities preside over the open  kitchen to “bless the food,” and the counter has wooden  boxes marked with ‘magic bits’ and ‘fairy dust.’ “We sprinkle it on all the food,” she tells me with a smile. Whether its magic or just good old-fashioned home-style cooking techniques,  the food is delicious.

The popular Kreole Platter releases a fragrant aroma as it is set on the table – a thali tray with a thick yellow dhal; a light, yet fully flavoured okra and vegetable curry, creamy raita; tasty Mauritian-inspired coconut chutney, chapati and a mix of red and white rice. Aussie-style pies are also a crowd favourite and include Chunky Beef Pie  encased in golden pastry, a hearty mashed potato-topped Shepherd’s Pie and real, homemade Sausage Rolls,soft flaky pastry filled with chicken, beef, carrot and just a hint of apple. The mini Spinach and Feta Borek are excellent – I cook good borek myself – and although it kills me to admit it,these are better.

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There are no sugary soft drinks on the menu, instead  fresh juices, young coconut, herbal teas and homemade cordials like Rosella and Vanilla Bean and Ginger and Lime mixed with soda water. Annick also stocks the rather  hard-to-find, but very good Bali Cider and organic F.R.E.A.K(Fresh Roasted Enak  Arabica from Kintamani) coffee  which is cold-pressed, smooth and full bodied. It is  the perfect accompaniment to Chocolate and Peanut Hedgehog a crunchy chocolate nutty slice, a Lemon Slice and  a Melting Moment – shortbread that really does melt in the mouth.

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Kreole Kitchen

JalanDrupardi 11 no.56

P +62 361 738514

Food for life, Great things to do in Bali, healthy cafes Bali, Uncategorized

Bungalow

Alison Bone

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Bungalow

Just minutes from Seminyak, the pretty seaside village of Berawa is developing quite a cafe scene.  Bungalow is the newest addition, combining  gorgeous homeware with a tasty home-style menu. Balinese-born musician Donald, and his Australian wife Giovanna, have drawn inspiration from their global travels to bring a touch of the exotic to this charming store/cafe, where everything has been hand-picked to create a wonderful homey atmosphere.  “We wanted to make a cosy sanctuary with good music…..a place to smell the flowers, the coffee and the incense, ”says Donald. 

A colonial-style wooden bungalow with distressed timber, exposed brick walls and quaint shutters sets the scene. Ornate bird cages dangle above the shady terrace where shelves are stacked with hand painted watering cans and fresh potted herbs (for sale) in bright flower pots. The air-conditioned interior is brimming with retro style furnishings and antiques, many in soft hues of green – chosen, says Donald, “To create a soothing, natural ambience.” All homewares are for sale, from four poster bed, to chunky dining table, brass hurricane lamps, woven place mats, crocheted quilts and floral cushions. A veritable treasure trove, Bungalow is ideal for gift shopping with its own line of bath products and candles, antique toys and inspirational books, with titles like ‘Thank you’ ‘I Believe’ ‘Joy’ and ‘Love.’  Cafe tables are scattered amidst the antiques and there is a lovely cushion filled alcove under a wall of clocks.  

A cabinet displays an enticing arrange of cakes, big glass jars are filled with cookies and fresh herbs, and baskets are piled with almond croissants, blueberry muffins, and French apple pie. The menu is listed on blackboards and includes a healthy range of juices, smoothies, baguettes, open sandwiches on sourdough, and salads. Tofu is blended with red peppers and walnuts, flavoured with herbs and mustard then baked into patties and served in a sesame seed bun with rocket, tomato, cheese, and homemade mayo to create a wholesome and tasty Tofu Burger. The Daily Salad is a fresh and springy mix of rocket, mixed leaves, pumpkin and fetta, while Baguettes come with a selection of fillings, like smoked salmon, rocket and cream cheese. Refreshing drinks include an invigorating Ginger Lime Cooler blending crushed ginger root with Bali lime, fresh-picked mint and ginger ale, while the Berry Delight is a luscious, dark pink  treat of mixed berries.

A good range of coffees make a perfect accompaniment to rich Chocolate Cake, Blueberry Cheese Cake,Carrot and Walnut Cake and my choice – Italian Meringue Pie a creamy, lemony concoction with the softest sweetest meringue.

 Bungalow home/books/music/coffee 

Jalan Pantai Berawa

T+62 361 8446567

Open 8.30am – 6pm  Mon – Sat

Food for life, Uncategorized

Tofu and Tempe

Alison Bone

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While both tofu and tempeh come from soy beans they are made with different processes. Tofu comes from curdling hot soy milk with a coagulant, while tempeh is made from slightly fermented cooked soy beans. While both are good sources of protein,  the fermentation process and the retention of whole beans gives tempeh a higher content of protein, dietary fiber and vitamins than tofu, as well as firmer texture and stronger flavor.

Tofu

Tofu is quite bland alone, but is a sponge for flavours, making it highly versatile as an ingredient. As a rule of thumb you could try preparing it in the same way that you cook chicken, using similar seasonings , best just to try and see what works for you. Silken tofu can be pureed and used in sauces, while the firmer tofus work well in stir fries or baked in the oven.

In Indonesia it is often deep fried which makes it tasty but not particularly healthy, and I have spent years experimenting to find the best way to cook it. Generally I keep it simple with a meal of tofu and salad, or a tofu sandwich layered with crispy tofu, grated carrot, sesame seeds and lettuce.To cook the tofu, first pat dry with absorbent paper, sprinkle with salt then pan fry in a thin coat of corn oil with sliced garlic and a little fresh ginger. Cook till golden. A drizzle of kecap manis (sweet soya sauce) at the end adds a sweet flavour, while a sprinkle of black sesame seeds adds a crunchy texture.

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Recently I tried the Caprese Kampung at Desa Seni. I am a huge fan of buffalo mozzarella and always love a Caprese salad, but this one  exchanges mozzarella with  fresh tofu, layering it  with avocado, kemangi (Balinese lemon basil) and firm but juicy tomatoes with a tangy sambal vinaigrette. The taste is  incredibly fresh and the sprinkle of crunchy fried shallots adds extra flavour. I will see if I can get the recipe so watch this space!

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Another of my favourite tofu dishes is at Clear  in Ubud, I think its called the snow crusted tofu – or something like that and I have been trying to recreate it. My version is  different – but it tastes pretty good.

Coconut crusted tofu

  • Heat oven to 350 degrees
  • 1 x block tofu (firm tofu is best) cut into cubes sprinkled with sea salt
  • 2 x tablespoon organic coconut syrup  – available at Zula (or agave nectar)
  • 1/4 cup shredded coconut (fresh if possible, but dried is ok)

Mix the tofu in a bowl with the coconut syrup and coconut until all the cubes are coated. Spread out on a baking sheet and bake for 30 minutes, or until the coconut begins to toast. Serve with rice, or mashed potato.

This recipe  is a favourite with my friends

Pasta with tofu, broccoli and feta

  • I block tofu, sliced 1cm thick
  • 3 cloves garlic
  • 2 shallots diced
  • 1 head broccoli (chopped into florets)
  • 50-100grams firm feta cheese
  • 1 pkt pasta
  • handful fresh parsley finely chopped

Sprinkle the tofu with salt and lightly pan fry, adding the garlic and shallots after a minute or so. Cook till golden. Meanwhile boil or steam the broccoli until cooked (but still firm) strain then add to tofu garlic mix and heat through. Cube the cooked tofu and lightly mash the brocoli and add the feta cheese.

Boil the pasta till al dente, toss with olive oil, then add the tofu /broccoli mix and serve with a sprinkle of parsley.

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Tandoori Tofu

These tasty cubes of tofu are great as canapes, served on toothpicks.

  • 600 gr deep fried tofu
  • 150 gr thick plain yoghurt
  • 2 tbsp tomato puree
  • a garlic clove, crushed
  • 3cm fresh ginger, grated
  • 1 green chilli, finely chopped (with seeds)
  • 1 tspn salt
  • 1 teaspoon cumin seeds plus 2 teaspoons coriander seeds,  lightly toasted in dry frying pan, and finely crushed 
  • 1/2 lemon, squeezed
  • fresh coriander, coarsely chopped

Cut the tofu into bite sized cubes and place in a large bowl. In another bowl combine all other ingredients (except fresh coriander and lemon.) Spoon the mixture over the tofu and toss well until evenly covered. Marinate for at least one hour (overnight is even better.) Spread on a baking tray and bake for 1 hour at 200 degrees Celsius. Transfer to a platter and sprinkle with lemon juice and fresh coriander. 

Tofu and Shitake Mushrooms with crispy black rice patties

  • 600 gr deep fried tofu cut into cubes
  • 1 tbspn each soy sauce, rice vinegar, sesame oil
  • 2 tbspn each sunflower oil, hoisin sauce
  • 1/2 tspn chilli oil 
  • 275 gr carrot cut into match sticks
  • 250 gr shitake mushrooms, thickly sliced
  • 9 spring onions, cut into 3 cm  strips

Rice Patties

  • 200 gr uncooked black rice (you could also use red rice)
  • 1 tbspn soy sauce
  • 1 teaspoon sweet chilli sauce
  • 1 egg yolk
  • 3 heaped tbspn plain flour
  • handful of fresh chives and coriander leaves, finely chopped
  • sea salt and fresh ground pepper

Cook the rice and soy sauce, then rinse until water runs clear. Put in a bowl and mash with chilli sauce, egg yolk, flour, chives, coriander, salt and pepper. Roll into 12 balls and flatten into patties. Heat oil (3 cm depth) in fry pan. Add a few patties at a time and cook on each side till golden brown. 

Put tofu on baking tray and sprinkle with soy sauce and chilli oil. Cook in pre heated oven at 200 Celsius for 20 minutes. Fry sunflower and sesame seeds , add carrots and mushrooms and cook for a few minutes. Add hoisin, soy sauce and rice vinegar and 200 ml water and continue cooking for two minutes. Stir in spring onions, roast tofu and salt/pepper. In a separate wok/fry pan stir fry bok choy for 2 – 3 minutes.

To serve  Put three rice patties on each plate, with bok choy, tofu and mushrooms alongside. Sprinkle with coriander. 

AA026366Tempe

Tempeh has a slightly sweet nutty flavour and much thicker texture than tofu. The Tempeh penyet (fried in batter) that  you find in the street markets in Jogjakarta (Java) is divine, but once again a little too oily to be healthy.  The thing is tempeh definitely tastes better when its crispy, and although I have tried baking it, I find its tastiest if I pan fry in just a little corn oil with some garlic (you can soak in water and salt for a few minutes first to make the tempeh a little more moist.)  I then use the crispy strips to make tempeh burgers or sandwiches or just toss it into a salad. Recently though I have been experimenting with tempeh manis, a sweet and crunchy dish that’s popular in the warungs here. Its really good sprinkled on salad.

Recipe Tempeh Manis

  • 1 x block tempeh, cut in slices 1/2 cm thick
  • 4 x garlic cloves
  • 2 shallots finely sliced
  • quarter teaspoon chopped ginger
  • 75 grams peanuts
  • 40 grams palm sugar
  • 3 teaspoons water

Lightly pan fry in batches, first the tempeh, then the peanuts, then the shallots (till crispy) and then the garlic and ginger (taking care not to burn).Heat the water in a saucepan with the sugar and sprinkle of salt until the sugar melts and the liquid is bubbling. Leave for a couple of minutes and then pour over all the fried ingredients, breaking the tempeh into small pieces. Allow to cool

Uncategorized

The scent of lemongrass

Alison Bone

Lemon Grass on wood background Stock Photo - 14502215

The heady aroma of lemongrass evokes the tropics and invigorates the senses, and has long been used in cooking and traditional healing throughout Asia and the South Pacific.  Strangely, I first encountered lemongrass in a friend’s garden in London and would infuse it in tea, add it to salads and roast vegetables and tie bundles of it around the house for use as an air freshener.  In Thailand my love affair began in earnest , I loved the citrus hint in fragrant Thai curries, but best of all were the steam rooms in Thailand and Laos which were filled with the tantalising and intoxicating vapours of lemongrass.

When I found myself living in the remote islands of Fiji I discovered that the Fijians planted it around their houses to ward off evil spirits and made special oils from its essence to use on those who had been possessed by devils.

Lemongrass has an enticing, lemony perfume without the bite of lemon and its taste is slightly sweeter with just a hint of ginger. It blends well with garlic, chili and cilantro, harmonises with coconut milk and works particularly well with chicken, seafood and vegetarian dishes. Here in Indonesia it often appears in curries and soups as the citrus taste helps to lift richer tasting dishes.

Appearance

A tall tropical grass, the fresh stalks and leaves of lemongrass contain an essential oil with a clean lemon like perfume (similar to that in lemon peel.)  The lower portion is sliced or pounded and used in cooking, while the stems can be made to use lemongrass tea (particularly good with ginger and honey). It also makes a flavourful marinade.

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Medicinal Uses

As well as being a versatile and tasty cooking ingredient, and a natural mosquito repellant, lemongrass has a plethora of medicinal uses. The grass is considered a diuretic, tonic and stimulant which promotes good indigestion and relieves nausea. It can also induce perspiration which cools the body and reduces fever. Lemongrass tea combats depression, bad moods and nervous disorders and the oil of lemongrass has anti fungal and anti backterial properties so can be used to treat cuts and scrapes. It is a popular ingredient in massage oil due to its relaxing aroma and it will help sooth lower back pain,sprains, circulatory problems and rhumatism.

The Mystical Realms

In ancient times lemongrass was used to repel dragons and serpents and was bathed in to promote lust, fidelity, honesty, strength and purification.Lemongrass tea is believed to aid psychic abilities and divination while carrying a sachet or charm is thought to attract the object of your desire and to bring honesty to your relationships.

Whether cooking, healing or practicing magic, lemongrass is best when bought fresh (or better yet, grown in your garden) so be sure to buy ones that have plump bases and long, blade like green leaves. Strip off the tough outer leaves and cut off the bottom root portion. Slice the bulbous end into ring about 1/4 inch in size on a diaganol then bruise the pieces to release the flavour and enter the seductive world of lemongrass.

Lemongrass Massage Oil

add a few drops of lemongrass essential oil to a carrier oil such as jojoba or coconut oil to create a  soothing massage to alleviate muscle aches and pains, such as rheumatoid arthritis, tendonitis and  lower back pain

How to make Lemongrass Essential Oil

Recipe from buzzle.com

Fresh lemongrass, 4 to 5 stalks
Fresh lime leaves, 5 to 6
Peanut or canola oil, 1½ cups
Garlic cloves, 3 to 4
Fresh ginger, 3 thin slices

Method

Wash the lemongrass and lime leaves thoroughly to clean the dust and dirt. Place them on a tissue paper so that the water seeps away and they become dry.
After the water has drained away from the leaves, chop them with t a knife. Slice the garlic cloves finely and keep them aside.
Now take a medium-sized, heavy bottom saucepan and heat the oil. After the oil has heated, reduce the heat and transfer the lemongrass and lime leaves, and allow it to simmer on this heat for about one hour.
Once the oil has turned a light green, add the garlic and ginger slices and let it continue to simmer for about 30 more minutes. Turn off the heat and let this mixture stand overnight in the same pan. You can even keep it for a longer period to gain a better, developed flavor.
With the help of a strainer, pour this oil into a sanitized glass bottle to store it. Your lemongrass essential oil is now ready for use.

Eco resorts Bali, Healing, Uncategorized

Fivelements Puri Ahimsa

Alison Bone

Fivelements, Puri Ahimsa sits at the end of a narrow country lane surrounded by rice paddys and fields of ripening corn. Thatched circular buildings with conical roofs reach for the sky, the gardens are filled with lush foliage, and the gushing of a fast flowing river  intermingles with birdsong.

From the moment I step onto the property I become aware of a shift in energy, a higher vibration. Perhaps it’s the convergence of eight energy lines that run through the property; maybe it’s the all-pervasive concept of ‘Love in Action,’ or possibly it’s the ritualistic Agni Hotra fires that are lit at dawn and dusk each day to purify the property. I have a traditional Balinese healing treatment that is a mix of reflexology and chakra balancing with Pak Dewa, a wonderful and powerful energy healer. At times the session is painful and I shed tears,  but by the end my spirit is soaring. Afterwards I sit on the verandah drinking ginger tea and reflecting on my life and my need to restore balance.That evening I join the Agni Hotra  fire purification ceremony, with Balinese priests leading us through a powerful ritual that includes throwing beans, seeds and incense into the fire, to symbolise cleansing, healing and forgiveness, while coconuts are smashed to signify the breakdown of ego. Through it all mantras are chanted, bells are rung and prayers recited.

The Balinese concept of Tri Hita Karana ‘creating a harmonious relationship to God, other human beings and to nature,’ is integrated in every aspect of the design. Local priests provided spiritual guidance in the layout of the resort, while international environmental consultants were consulted to minimize the ecological impact. Thoughtful construction utilizes  bamboo, riverstone, coconut wood and recycled teak and mimics the curves, colors and rawness of nature. Sustainable practices include effective waste management, low energy consumption and  efficient use of water resources; all  contributing  to making this one of the most sustainable eco conscious resorts on the island.

But just because it is sustainable doesn’t mean it cuts any corners when it comes to luxury. Five sumptuous sleeping pavilions have decadent outdoor bathrooms, private decks with sunken tubs, high tech chromo graphic lighting, and handpicked antiques, while the spa specialises in organic treatments concocted in the spa laboratory and the restaurant serves the most exquisite raw food on the island – truly food for the soul.

http://www.fivelements.org

Making a Difference, Uncategorized

Saving the reefs of Northern Bali

Alison Bone

The Indonesian archipelago is home to the richest assortment of coral species in the world, but its reefs are vanishing as global warming, pollution and unsustainable fishing and tourism practices take their toll.

Indonesia’s appalling conservation record is well documented and it would be easy to write yet another article about imminent disaster; but I am sick of all the doom and gloom, because with destruction comes regeneration.  While politicians  and environmental agencies gather in endless global summits and engage in pointless debates about how to fix things,  often the most effective change is happening at a grassroots level, and I knew that somewhere in Bali someone would be doing something to save the reefs.

I find my story in the north of the island, in a humble village that sits in the shadows of the mountains. Just meters off  Pemuteran’s  black sandy shore lies the  Karang Lestari (Everlasting Reef) Project, one of the largest and most ambitious coral restoration projects in the world. A reef that had badly damaged is once again thriving due to a unique technology called Bio-Rock, which uses electric currents to stimulate the growth of coral.

I have no idea what to expect, but this is unbelievable, a kind of futuristic underwater fantasy world. Fifty large steel structures span over 1000 feet and take the form of a caterpillar, a whale, an igloo, a dome, a tent, and a  flower,  all covered in a profusion of brightly coloured coral. Hundreds of tiny blue fish hover above the dome, bat fish flitter amidst the flowers. I see starfish, lionfish, a school of snapper and cheeky little Nemos everywhere. Soft pastel corals sway in the current and purple tipped table corals sprawl across the metal bars. The reef surrounding the structures is also thriving, everywhere I look I see life and vibrant colour. Natural power is the plan for future structures (which includes a Goddess rising from a lotus.) Reef Seen Aquatics Dive Center have already set  things in motion,  sponsoring two structures, a bio wreck and a giant turtle that are powered by solar panels.

Bio-Rock utilizes Mineral Accretion Technology which stimulates the growth of naturally occurring calcium carbonate, the substance that forms coral. Low levels of electric current (dc) are rigged to the structures which are then planted with coral fragments, minerals are attracted to the coral, the coral adheres to the structures and grows at an accelerated rate of up to five times. It also produces a veritable super coral that is hardier and more resistant to changing water temperatures and pollution. Healthy coral brings fish, and when combined with a ‘no fishing’ policy, it acts as a breeding ground thus replenishing fish stock for outer reefs.

Back on land, I spend time with Komang the Manager of the Bio-Rock centre, he has been involved with the project since its beginning and his dedication and insight is inspiring. He tells me that, “Bio-Rock is good because it brings the tourists, which bring money to the community, and it also brings fish so it keeps the fishermen happy.” Herein lies the true significance of the project because along with reef restoration came social and economic rejuvenation.

Traditionally Pemuteran was one of Bali’s most impoverished fishing villages. During the nineties tourists started to trickle into the area drawn to the stunning reefs. But in 1998 double catastrophe struck; El Nino sent warm currents across the globe causing mass coral bleaching; and the Asian economic crisis sent waves of starving itinerant Indonesian fishermen into Pemuteran, where the bounty was plentiful. They were armed with  dynamite and cyanide (used to stun fish to gather for aquariums) and the peace was shattered by exploding bombs.

All too often conservation conflicts with traditional resource users. How do you tell a starving fisherman that he cannot take the fish? Komang says that he couldn’t blame the fisherman because “They were only looking for this time, not the future.”  They didn’t know any better. The key to sustainability is education, and the availability of viable alternatives, and behind the scenes a group of colourful characters had been providing this.  Chris Brown the owner of Reef Seen Aquatics and a long term and well loved resident had worked tirelessly with the community  and village leaders to instill the need for sustainability and was joined by Pak Agung, the Balinese owner of  Taman Sari resort; and Rani and Narayan, ardent divers who were former members of a large religious community.  Chris tells me that “You have to take things slowly, so that they get done quickly and slowly but surely the fishermen understood. In a unique turn of events Adat (traditional) law was applied to create a no fishing zone and the Pecalang laut (marine security forces) were formed to chase of the cyanide fishermen.

Encouraged by community  efforts to conserve the reef, more colourful characters entered the scene; Dr Tom Goreau, an impassioned Jamaican marine biologist and Professor Wolf Hilbertz the German scientist who had discovered Bio-Rock. Together they had formed the Global Coral Reef Alliance and  donated their time and energy to Pemuteran, the first structures were placed in the sea in 2000. Karang Lestari has received numerous environmental awards and Government recognition, however it has been entirely sponsored by private donors and operates on the tightest of shoe string budgets. Recent initiatives include the opportunity to ‘Sponsor a baby coral’ and the establishment of PET (Pemuteran Environment and Community Trust) whereby divers can make a voluntary donation of RP 20,000 or more.

Similar projects have been attempted in other locations but without the support of the community are doomed to failure. A key to the success of Karang Lestari has been the implementation of other projects that enable the community.  Chris initiated the recruitment of ‘Reef Gardeners’ who are trained to maintain and protect the reefs, and a Turtle Hatchery which  protects sea turtles and their eggs. The Pemuteran Foundation, PET, and private tour operators also support these and various other programs aimed at education, tree planting and clean water.

To say the village is prospering would be an overstatement, but life for its inhabitants has improved dramatically. As  Komang tells me,  “Now no one is hungry.” Fishermen have been converted from hunters to protectors and have seen that conservation means more fish. Villagers have learned that by protecting the sea they benefit financially because the restored reefs bring tourists which create jobs and business opportunities, which in turn gives access to education and health care. Everybody wins!  It might just be one reef and one community, but it’s a step in the right direction and  Pemuteran acts as a model for fishing and diving communities everywhere.

For more information or to make a donation check the following websites, or take a trip to Pemuteran and see for yourself….

www.balitamansari.com

www.pemuteranfoundation.com

www.biorockbali.webs.com

www.reefseenbali.com

www.globalcoral.org

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Balinese Boreh

Alison Bone

The colossal gateway of carved stone fringed by vast banyan trees, sets the tone for Nusa Dua Beach Hotel and Spa, an atmospheric  resort deeply imbued with Balinese warmth and charm. The famed spa is set just outside the gates in a peaceful oasis of wonderful old trees, and makes a great day trip. Treatment pavilions encircle a lavish swimming pool bordered by frangipani and heliconia, and there is full access to tennis and squash courts,  gym, sauna and steam room. The cafe serves up healthy salads and sandwiches, as well as fruit mocktails like Coconut Nojito with mint and coconut cream, pressed lime and Bali honey. Beauty classes teach the craft of  creating traditional body masks such as Balinese Boreh, and scrubs like Javanese Lulur, as well as local sunburn remedies, and jamu (traditional herbal remedies.)

We tried

The spicy detox treatment based on ‘boreh’, a traditional rejuvenating treatment popular in the mountains of Bali, where nights can be chilly. The deep penetrating heat of local spices is also favoured by fishermen and farmers, as it increases blood circulation and relieves aching joints.

Our treatment takes place in a lush spa villa for two and starts with an invigorating sea salt and peppermint foot scrub. A nurturing massage with warm herbal compresses of fresh betel leaf, citrus oil, and fresh lemon grass lulls us into a deep state of relaxation. Next, a mask of fresh crushed ginger, nutmeg and clove is applied and we are wrapped, cocoon-like, leaving the  spices to warm our bodies and detoxify our skin. The treatment finishes with a cooling application of fresh cucumber to seal in moisture.

The Verdict

The delicious warmth of the spices heats the muscles and the joints, melting away tension leaving us in an atrophic state. The wrap also acts as an exfoliator, removing dead cells to reveal silky, luminous skin.

Also Recommended

Signature packages include scrubs, massages and baths. Try Latte Detox with milk and honey;  Fruit Punch with Papaya and Avocado; Royal Exotic with Lulur body scrub and yoghurt mask

www.nusaduahotel.com

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Bali Eco village

Alison Bone

We abuse land because we regard it as a commodity belonging to us. When we see land as a community to which we belong we may begin to use it with love and respect.

Aldo Leopold    

High in the hills, in a valley shrouded in morning mists and perpetual tranquility, Bali Ecovillage provides a welcome sanctuary  from the excesses of southern Bali.

Bali Ecovillage  is set in a mountainous valley to the west of Kitamani, surrounded by bamboo trees, rainforests and coffee plantations. Original plans were for a weekend house built in bamboo, a place for the owners to relax and revel in the beauty of nature, but as the walls grew, so too did the idea of turning this peaceful sanctuary into an eco lodge that others could also enjoy;  guest bungalows and a couple of spacious villas were soon added to the plans.

Bamboo is increasingly popular as the eco building material of choice; a fast growing woody grass, it absorbs four times as much  carbon dioxide as slow to harvest timber, is lighter than steel, and five times stronger than concrete. Plants can grow several feet in a day and a field of bamboo can be harvested and used for construction purposes within three years of planting. If well treated and maintained it is also super resistant. The simple elegance and quiet strength of the  bamboo plant is mimicked in the rustic buildings at Bali Ecovillage , thousands of poles in shades of light and dark have been tightly bound together creating rich textures and dimensions. The building design was largely experimental and the results are quirky and enchanting with a hotchpotch of influences from around the archipelago, with a good measure of Italian flair thrown into the mix. The lodge is fitted with comfortable sofas, great books, a pool table, and a dart board, while evocative artifacts from Papua New Guinea  are scattered throughout the lounge and bungalows.  Sunlight peeps through the skylights and an expansive deck offers panoramic views of the surrounding mountains,  this is the perfect place to soak up the silence, and breathe in air that is so fresh that the blast of oxygen makes you giddy. The atmosphere is cozy and homely, with evenings spent warming toes by an open fire,  perhaps curled up with a book or a board game, and a mug of steaming hot chocolate.

The word ‘eco’ is often just a catch phrase, but at Bali Ecovillage it is given full credence, the aim is to become a fully sustainable tourism facility, and to ‘give back’ to the local community, providing employment, training and education as well as acting as a model for eco tourism in the region. Waste is segregated with recycling handled by Eco Bali, and  organic matter composted or fed to the animals. Water is locally sourced, and garden water recycled, while the river has been harnessed to create hydro electricity that supplies some of the property’s  power needs. Activities are wholesome and ‘back to nature,’ visitors can learn how to make Balinese offerings; enjoy traditional massage;  bathe in the river or hike through the jungle. Rafting, cycling and rice paddy tours can also be organized. Guests are encouraged to explore the organic farm, with its extensive vegetable gardens, free range chickens, ducks and pigs. The homegrown cuisine adds to the wholesome atmosphere, and is even more enjoyable with an appetite stimulated by the fresh mountain air. Pick your own salad from the thriving greenhouse and enjoy homemade pasta, breads, jams and cakes.

Bali Ecovillage gives a glimpse into another side of Bali and is truly a place to recharge body, mind and soul.

www.baliecovillage.com